There is complicated watchmaking and complicated watchmaking. The theme is that of a good storybook, and sometimes some, like the new Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Chronograph, tell of a spell.
Born to express the maximum of complicated watchmaking, although they have always been very high-end pieces, between the end of the 40s and the beginning of the 60s it was not difficult to come across a chronograph with a perpetual calendar complete with phases. lunar. Today, when I see a new one, I always get a certain emotion.
The battle between these ultra-complicated chronographs, which sometimes also include the rattrapante variant of the chronograph, has always taken place between the two largest Geneva houses: Vacheron and Patek.
New in Watches & Wonders 2022, Vacheron Constantin presented a dream model with a platinum case and salmon-colored dial.
Traditionnelle Chronograph Perpetual Calendar
Let’s start with aesthetics. That this replica watches uk is very traditional is immediately anticipated by the name of the collection to which this excellence belongs, and immediately afterwards, at first glance, the faceted Dauphine hour-minute hands.
The salmon pink opaline dial on which all the applied indications are in white gold, form an elegant and immediately readable combination. Some spheres, the one in the center of the chronograph, the 30-minute counter and the date window are in blued steel. The moon phase disc, engraved with the typical satirical faces of the satellite, is instead in platinum.
Going into more detail, the small seconds and minutes counters, in an opal salmon color, are distinguished by the circular satin ring with a finely blued center. The same bluish finish is found on the edge that bears the calendar numbers.
Just below 12 o’clock we find another gem that emphasizes the exclusivity of this perpetual calendar chronograph: a relief and faceted version of the Maltese cross, emblem of the Maison. Made of rose gold, it has facets on each arm of the cross, sandblasted on one side and polished on the other.
The stepped platinum case measures 43mm in diameter and 12.94 in height. The transparent caseback shows the in-house caliber.
Movement
When in a Vacheron movement you see the numbering “1100” you can be sure that you are faced with something very complicated.
The new fake vacheron constantin Traditionnelle Chronograph Perpetual Calendar is powered by the hand-wound caliber 1142 QP. Derived from the movements of equal functions that the Maison built in the 40s, it includes 324 elements, not many for the level of complications on board, and this is synonymous with a compact construction design therefore of high mechanical value.
Its 3 Hz frequency (21,600 vibrations / hour) is quite vintage. The power reserve of 48 hours is not much, but a chronograph together with the perpetual calendar does not consume little. Naturally, the functions of the chronograph are sorted by a column wheel with vertical engagement.
The finishes are sublime, and God forbid. The perlage on the plate, the bridges decorated with Côtes de Genève, the hand-anglé components and the étiré sides make it clear visually.
Price
Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Chronograph Perpetual Calendar is priced at 121,250 euros excluding taxes. To say that it costs little would be outrageous, but for the watch it is and what it will become, I expected a lot more. It is not a limited edition, but even more so it will be built in very few examples and sold exclusively in the boutiques of the brand.
Opinions
To realize how much a chronograph with a perpetual calendar counts in watchmaking, just go and see how much they are auctioned today.
To conclude, the Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Chronograph Perpetual Calendar is definitely a collector’s item; one more reason why it is in platinum and because even in the top of the range – as we find ourselves now – it is not a timepiece you see every day.
